buenos aires for 33 days: a practical guide
travel / tips
spending 33 days in buenos aires was rewarding and sometimes messy to plan. with a bit of structure it all came together. if you are heading to ba, even for a shorter stay, here is what worked for me and what i wish i had known. the trip took place in november 2022 and these notes reflect what i experienced on the ground and what i still had on my mind by february 2023.
this covers budget, flights, airbnb, moving money, arrival, getting around, things to do, and a set of photo notes that make the post less dry.
budget
make a simple spreadsheet with flights, accommodation, food, transport, activities, and a cushion for surprises. seeing the total in one place helps you decide where to save and where to spend before booking anything.
flights
compare fares on sites like google flights (https://www.google.com/flights), expedia (https://www.expedia.com/), and skyscanner (https://www.skyscanner.net/). i flew gru to aep round trip with aerolíneas argentinas for around r$1400 paid in installments. buenos aires has two main airports: aeroparque jorge newbery (smaller and close to the center) and ezeiza (larger and farther). think congonhas versus guarulhos.
accommodation
after booking flights i chose an airbnb near abasto shopping on avenida corrientes. one block from pueyrredón station on line b made it easy to connect with the rest of the city. when you pick a place, read reviews carefully, check the host rating, and confirm nearby basics like subway, pharmacy, supermarket, and places to eat.
money
cards can be expensive because of exchange rates. cash helps more than you might expect. western union transfers worked well and i picked up cash in person.
what worked for me in november 2022:
- bring some usd if you arrive on a weekend. many places accept dollars and use a parallel rate. i saw quotes around 1 usd ≈ 300 ars that beat my card rate.
- send smaller transfers. systems can fail, some locations run out of cash, and mistakes happen. smaller amounts reduce the risk of headaches.
- i sent r$250 at a time and received roughly 15,000 ars per transfer. i withdrew with my passport once the pickup cleared.
planning days
sketch a loose outline with a few anchors like neighborhoods or museums and leave room to wander. buenos aires rewards unplanned walks, long coffees, and the surprise of live music around a corner.
a little spanish
basic phrases go a long way. even when people speak english, using spanish smooths interactions and makes the trip richer.
travel insurance
compare a few policies and choose one that fits your length of stay and activities. it is boring, yes, and valuable when you need it.
arrival
thanks to the brazil mercosur agreement you can travel with your id. i brought my passport hoping for a first stamp and everything was digital, so no stamp. immigration was simple. they asked where i was staying, i showed the airbnb receipt, and i said tourism. i carried printed copies of vaccine records and reservations. no one asked, but it felt safer.
at the airport i used wifi to book an uber to my airbnb because i did not have a local sim yet. nearby western union offices were closed until monday because i arrived saturday afternoon. the claro shop in abasto sold sims to foreigners in cash only. i spent the weekend exploring on foot and buying food at the mall using offline maps i had downloaded.
getting around
the subway and buses connect well. i once took a late bus from palermo to avenida corrientes around 2 a.m. without issues.
- you need a transit card to ride buses and the subway. buy it at subway stations and load as you go.
- during my stay, subways cost under r$1 per ride and buses were under r$0.50 for the distances i did. for buses, tell the driver your destination because the fare depends on distance.
- taxis were usually easier and cheaper than ride apps. watch for longer routes and check change carefully.
things i liked and recommend
- san telmo is great to wander, especially on sunday for the fair and antiques. i had one of the best barbecues of my life at the market.
- plaza de mayo and the casa rosada tell a lot of the country’s story in one walk.
- recoleta cemetery, the centro cultural recoleta, and floralis genérica are close enough to visit in one loop.
- eat widely. empanadas, asado, miga sandwiches, and plenty of gelato. buenos aires also has good peruvian and mexican food.
- tour la bombonera in boca juniors. i visited the stadium during the 2022 world cup period and could not catch a match.
- caminito in la boca has colorful streets and many bars near the stadium.
- puerto madero offers a modern waterfront walk.
- tigre is an easy day trip into the delta.
- the feria de mataderos has crafts and regional food.
- monserrat has historic churches worth a look.
- the botanical garden is a calm break from the city.
- palermo has a dense food scene. i liked la fábrica de tacos and had a strong meal at las petunias.
- el ateneo grand splendid is a bookstore in a historic theater and it is as beautiful as everyone says.
- the evita museum is compact and focused.
- on mondays la bomba del tiempo at konex is a must. buy tickets at the box office because it was cheaper.
photos with commentary
little moments that match the places above. captions are mine.
centro cultural recoleta on a cloud afternoon. yellow walls, tiled patios, kids running between exhibits. the museum anchors the neighborhood and spills into the square.
poster by alejandro magallanes in the wild. bold color, type that refuses to behave, humor with a backbone.
work session kit. mate, a notebook with too many to do items, and python on the screen pretending not to throw errors.
simple plate and perfectly fine rice after walking too much. not every meal needs a thesis. sometimes you just need fuel and a quiet seat by the window.
late walk near corrientes ends with a hamburger that tastes better than it has any right to. the kind you eat standing because you do not want to lose the heat.
la fábrica de tacos in palermo. crisp tortillas, bright salsas, the right amount of lime. the best one for me. (update 2025 still the best. barcelona’s spots do not even compare.)
another good meal that turned into a longer conversation than planned. buenos aires is good at that trick where lunch becomes afternoon.
floralis genérica looked ready to open but stayed still the whole time. cloudy sky, petals at rest. it felt right to slow down too.
planning a month in buenos aires can look intimidating. with a budget early bookings a sane way to handle cash and a flexible plan it becomes a relaxed and memorable trip. as of february 2023 the tips above reflect what i did and saw. enjoy the city slowly.
enjoyed this post? get new ones by email:
.